Peter Dundas landed in New York from his current home base in LA last week, and it’s been go-go-go since he and his life and business partner EV Bousis hit the ground. Next Monday, there will be celebrities to dress for the Met Gala—that’s business as usual for Dundas. And today, there was a show to put on with the retailer Revolve, which is his brand new thing. Dundas’s four-year-old eponymous brand is a luxury operation like the houses where he’s held creative director posts in the past, Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci, and Ungaro, included. “Revolve,” he said, “is about much more inclusive price points, the clients can be younger. But this is Dundas, it’s a Dundas collection.”
Meaning, it’s every bit as sexy and confident as the work he does for the red carpet and the stage. Hailey Bieber, Jodie Turner Smith, and Ciara have all lately worn his tie-side, open-back, aptly named Nirvana dress, and H.E.R. chose Dundas for her purple Prince-inspired look at the Oscars. Only his designs for Revolve are more approachable, when it comes to affordability and often when it comes to vibes.
At a preview, Dundas pointed out the collection’s Americanness. “It came instinctively,” he said. “Because Revolve is an American company, and because I was working in LA when we were waiting for Alexios [he and Bousis’s child via surrogacy] to arrive.” Also, he went on, “my mom was from Indiana, so this is actually a bit like a homecoming.” His mood board was pinned with cowgirls, rock ‘n’ roll stars, and ’80s supermodels.
On the rooftop runway at Casa Cipriani, supermodels of the 2020s like Imaan Hammam and Grace Elizabeth wore overalls in black leather, buffalo check work jackets, chunky hand-knits, and oversize men’s coats alongside the more Dundas-y leopard print, velour devoré, and lamé. Sexy is trending, Dundas has never not been part of that conversation. What’s new about this endeavor is the inclusiveness he was talking about. High fashion designers haven’t always spoken so directly to real-life customers, even though their work often connects viscerally with real-life people. But Dundas is more than game; he’s hoping to put his next collection for Revolve on the runway, too—for it to be a regular thing. “It feels modern to combine forces,” he said. “Revolve is bringing their suppliers, fabric mills, and embroiderers; their analytics. I’m bringing my DNA. And together you get something new and fresh.”
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