Some of us were quick to assume that the Covid-19 had finally killed off the suit after the rise of streetwear had largely pushed it – and menswear’s smarter garments – out of favour. However, while the pandemic might have given rise to remote working culture and relaxed office dress codes forever, all it really meant for the suit is that it had to reinvent itself as a means to survive.
And so it has, as designers have stripped the starch and pulled the traditional tailoring template apart in a bid to restitch suiting in appealing new ways. These days, the most exciting ones in menswear are not the stiff and buttoned-up ones of yesteryear, the ones that made us all feel like corporate drones or cogs in a machine, but ones that would make us stand out. They are generously proportioned, provocative, cut from sumptuous fabrics and available in colours that’d make staunch suit loyalists roll in their graves. This season, the suit has officially got sexy.
All you have to do is look at the SS23 shows to see it. For Saint Laurent, creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented versions of the suit that possessed a silky fluidity to them: slouchy oversized jackets and lanky pants paired with gauzy tops that clung to the torso, or nothing at all so that oil-misted chests were on display. Over at Paul Smith, they were boxy, blousy and low-buttoned and had a jazz-age loucheness and looseness to them, while dutch designer Dries Van Noten took inspiration from the 1940s Zaous in Paris, and the Buffalo club scene in 1980s London - both establishments where loud, bodacious clothing dominated. The result: trousers of great sweeping proportions and blazers that were synched at the waist.
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